Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.

Main Office

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15th Floor
New York, NY 10017

Phone (212) 818-0770
Fax (212) 953-2366

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Avon, CT 06001
Phone (860) 409-9119
Fax (860) 409-9272

 

 

Dopff & Irion - THE WINE ESTATES AT THE CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR


Editorial by Alex HEINRICH

TALES…..

The TALE of a family... This is the Renaissance. The vineyards in Alsace are thriving, especially in Riquewihr. Building is going on everywhere, trade is booming, wine is a precious commodity. The Dopff and the Irion families put their heart and soul into winegrowing. Wines from Riquewihr were famed throughout Europe and as time passed by, the town became a showcase for the history of wine-growing in Alsace.

The TALE... of a pioneer: René Dopff, one of André Malraux' closest friends, who took over Dopff & Irion in 1945...

He broke away from the old wine making techniques and looked to the terroir rather than to the grape variety. He decided to divide the vineyard at the Château de Riquewihr into four estates which he rechristened with typically French names: Les Murailles, Les Sorcières, Les Maquisards and Les Amandiers.

He opted for clearer labelling, abandoning gothic lettering in favour of a more sober script.

These wines, made solely from the four noble grape varieties, expressed the very soul of the terroir. From that day on, each estate was dedicated to a particular variety.

René Dopff then proceeded to ensure that his wines graced the best tables in France and the world over. He supplied wines to the Palais de l'Elysée, the French President's residence and for the launch of the luxury liner, "France"...

We at Dopff are proud of our inheritance and it is our duty to ensure that continues to thrive and prosper. Our love of wine, of our vines, of our region is an invitation to a voyage through history to be shared and savoured.

The Chateau de Riquewihr - The Perfect Location

The site that was to become Riquewihr has been inhabited since the neolithic era. Ideally situated, its importance as a vineyard began in the 6th century when a wealthy Frankish landowner named Richo founded a great vineyard. The name "Riquewihr" derives from "Richovilla", meaning the estate of Richo. In the Middle Ages, Riquewihr was a flourishing, vibrant city thanks to the reputation of its wines that were exported throughout northern Europe, the Rhine being the principal means of communication at that time.

The DOPFF and the IRION families can be traced back to the 16th century. Successive generations have ensured that the vineyard and castle continue to prosper. The castle, built at the beginning of the Renaissance period, originally belonged to the Princes of Wurtemberg who ruled the city and the surrounding region for five centuries.

Today, Riquewihr is known as "the pearl of Alsace". Its architectural splendour and marvellous setting are witness to the glory of its past: medieval remains such as the ramparts, the celebrated dolder tower, and particularly, all the elegance and bubbling creativity of the Renaissance: the timbered houses , the oriel windows, the decoration on the doors, windows and fountains etc.

The castle houses both a museum and our wine firm with its old cellars. One of them was built in 1549 hard by Riquewihr's city walls. The old tuns (one of them is a magnificent piece of work dating from 1783) and a screw press from the 19th century are carefully preserved.

A great vineyard in terms of size:

DOPFF & IRION makes its wines from 27 hectares of vines within the district of Riquewihr, a large area considering the usual size of estates in Alsace (60% of production sites cover less than one hectare).

A great vineyard of quality of the terroir:

There is no question that the area around Riquewihr is blessed with every possible natural attribute for successful vine cultivation. The climate is such that the grapes ripen slowly. To the west, the Vosges mountains minimize oceanic influences, whilst to the north, the famous Schoenenbourg hill protects the site from cold north winds.

The amazing variety of geological formations in Alsace makes these vineyards some of the most complex in the world. The one at Riquewihr is located on one of the main fissure areas in Alsace. This veritable mosaic of soils and sub-soils (marl, limestone, gypsum, clay, sandstone.....) means that the wines reflect the various types of terroir.

The experience of several generations has allowed us to determine which grape varieties are suited to which terroir, this is why there are four estates at the Château de Riquewihr, each one with its own particular grape variety.

"Les Murailles" for Riesling
"Les Sorcieres" for Gewurztraminer
"Les Amandiers" for Muscat
"Les Maquisards" for Tokay Pinot Gris
“Les Tonnelles” for Pinot Noir

Furthermore, over one third of the whole area within these estates is classed as Grand Cru, SCHOENENBOURG and SPOREN.

The vinegrower's profession:

The terroir has potential for quality but it cannot produce a truly great wine without help from the vintner.

Plot selection :

One estate may have many different terroirs. The composition of the soil, the altitude, the steepness of the slope, aspect to the sun and air flow can all vary over just a few metres. For instance, a warm thermal belt has been identified half way up the hill at Schoenenbourg. These climatic and topographical factors exercise a decisive influence on the quality of the harvest. This is why plot selection is essential. For example, we have an area of 9 hectares classed as Grand Cru Schoenenbourg but less than 2 are actually used to produce our Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenbourg.

Yield control:

Only mature and healthy grapes can yield great wines. The more concentrated the fruit, the greater the expression of the terroir. This is why we limit our yields to below the levels established by the INAO. Yields for our Grands Crus never exceed 45 to 50 hectolitres per hectare and we make our estate wines according to Grand Cru standards.

Pruning: Our vines are short pruned and the canes cut back to half size. This way, we eliminate the tip which is the most productive part of the vine and as such, gives the lowest quality. Ordinary pruning leaves 11 to 12 buds but short pruning leaves only 7 or 8.

Grass growing: Leaving grass between one out of two rows of vines renders the vine less productive. It therefore produces fewer bunches and these grapes are smaller and therefore richer in sugar, they also have thicker skins.

Crop thinning: At fruit set, at the beginning of August, if nature has been too generous, we eliminate some of the bunches to promote maturity and concentrate the vine's richness in a smaller quantity of fruit.

Organic soil fertilization: Only natural fertilizers are used in order to maintain the soil's biological balance and the typicity of the terroir (organic matter such as grass cut from rows between the vines and crushed vine prunings).

Controlled usage of vine treatment products: We employ these products sparingly. For example, we use a decoy to combat the grape worm which allows us to determine the level of treatment required at any given moment for maximum efficiency. We prefer to till our vines and leave rows of grass between them rather than weeding them completely. Tilling and grassing force the vine to plunge its roots deeper into the ground; the wines will therefore reflect the complexity of the soils in the vineyards at Riquewihr. Grassing is the best solution to the problem of hillside erosion.

Mass selection :

Vine shoots selected from old vines allow us to replant the original variety in its terroir. Contrary to clonal selection, mass selection preserves the personality and diversity of our graftings and gives lower yields (small grapes).

Harvesting and wine-making

Harvesting :

The northerly location of the vineyards in Alsace makes the quest for optimal maturity all the more important. As soon as the grape berries begin to change colour, levels of maturity in each vineyard are checked regularly so that the grapes are harvested as ripe as possible. Harvesting is therefore timed to pinpoint the best balance between levels of sugar and acidity. The grapes are picked by hand and sorted if necessary. Then they are taken to the cellars in partially filled baskets to avoid crushing the berries.

Gentle pressing :

The grapes are left whole and transported to the press by conveyer belt. They are pressed slowly and gradually, only the juice from the first pressing will be used to ferment our estate wines.

Ageing :

After racking and controlled-temperature fermentation, the wines remain on their fine lees for several months before bottling. They will not be sold for two to four years.



 

SELLING ARGUMENTS FOR THE WINES FROM THE
Domaines du Château de Riquewihr

- Riesling « Les Murailles »
- Tokay Pinot Gris « Les Maquisards »
- Gewurztraminer « Les Sorcières »

1) Appellation

The three main words are significant arguments :

  • “Domaines” : it means that these wines are coming from the 27 ha owned by Dopff & Irion around Riquewihr. We are controlling 100 % of the production process of these wines.

  • “Château” : this name is very rare in Alsace since only 5 producers in total can actually use it. For the consumer, the word “Château” does mean something positive and makes him “dream” !

  • “Riquewihr” ; the village of Riquewihr has been for ever in Alsace the heart of the area of production because of the quality of its terroir and the beauty of the village. We had last year 3 millions of tourists visiting this very nice small city !! It is the most famous Alsatian village in the world !

2) Names of the wines

René Dopff, the co-founder of Dopff & Irion, has given old French names to each wine which is an exclusivity to Dopff & Irion. It gives the opportunity to the sales person to give the buyer further information and credibility to his comments.

  • Riesling Les Murailles : the heart of the estate is located on the abrupt hillside of the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg that overlooks the rooftops of the village of Riquewihr. It was named "Les Murailles" (walls) because the lower part of the slope borders on the village's medieval ramparts.

  • Tokay Pinot Gris Les Maquisards : René Dopff was a member of the Resistance and a friend of André Malraux. He named this estate after his comrades who helped liberate France.

  • Gewurztraminer Les Sorcières: legend has it that witches were burned at the stake here, just outside the village. This is how the estate got its name "Les Sorcières", meaning "witches". But the site is full of charm and countrified grace with its romantic arbourand rounded hillsides. More appropriate to fairies than witches!

3) Vineyards

The growing policy has changed a lot since 1998 with the arrival of our new vineyard manager Hervé Barvisan

  • our vineyards are grown now 98 % organically and we are doing this year some tests on some Riesling plots in “bio-dynamie” in order to give the nature the best conditions to provide us with the best grapes possible !

  • the “Domaines” are following the strict rules of the Grand Cru standard when it comes to the vineyards workings as well as the yield/ha. This means that our vineyards are not producing more than 65 Hl/ha even if they are not in the Grand Cru delimitation. Therefore, we have a better complexity, structure, power, length etc.. that a normal yield of 90 hl as in the past and these wines have a ‘Grand Cru” style.

  • Massal selection : we are no more using “clowns” when it comes to the vineplants. We are doing our own selection through our ineyards, give them to a nurseryman and then, we will have our own future vineplants. Doing so, we are keeping a maximum of natural specificities of the Dopff & Irion vineyards and finally for the wines as well !


4) Wine making styles and method

  • A new wine-maker joined us in 1997 : his name is Jean-François Kueny and he is the son of one of the best wine-makers in Alsace called Michel Kueny.

  • The style of the wines have been different since then with more elegant, well-balanced, dry, clean, fresh wines which are again perfectly matching with food !

  • Investments have been made following the new ownership in the cellar : totally controlled temperature storage capacities, new Kieselgur filters, micro vinification stainless steel vats for a total of 900 hl, new pressing machines, etc..Conclusions : some dramatic changes happened within the last 4 years within Dopff & Irion with a strong policy to produce high qualitative Alsace wines again and build the image of Dopff & Irion in the U.S.A..

Dopff & Irion is certainly the most increasing brand from Alsace in the States for the last two/three years which is very promissing ! With the 2000/2001 vintages available now, we can feel very confident to propose the Domaines wines again to the trade and give Dopff & Irion an higher qualitative image and answer the needs of good restaurants and qualitative retailers.

Two wines of the Domaines out of four have been awarded at the
International Wine & Spirit Competition
in 2002 and Dopff & Irion won the prestigious title of

“BEST FRENCH WINE PRODUCER 2002” !


 

DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -

"LES MURAILLES"

The heart of the estate is located on the abrupt hillside of the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg that overlooks the rooftops of the village of Riquewihr. It was named "Les Murailles" (walls) because the lower part of the slope borders on the village's medieval ramparts.

TERROIR: Huddled against the Vosges mountain range, this hillside vineyard faces south and enjoys a mild, sunny climate, allowing the grapes to reach maximum maturity. The soil is composed of marls (pink, yellow and blue marl) and gypsum covered with a fine layer of sand and scree from Vosges sandstone.

GRAPE VARIETY : This terroir is ideal for riesling. Riesling is a late-maturing variety which allows itself to be guided by the terroir. The excellent micro climate on this estate allows riesling to reach maximum maturity easily, even late in the autumn. The rich and varied soils also give riesling its strength, complexity and aptitude for ageing which stems from its precious acidity. As the years go by, Riesling's fruity, floral aromas give way to an expression of the terroir: nuances of honey, liquorice, coffee and flint.

AREA: 10 hectares, 9 of which are within the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg area.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -

"LES SORCIERES"

Legend has it that witches were burned at the stake here, just outside the village. This is how the estate got its name
"Les Sorcières", meaning "witches". But the site is full of charm and countrified grace with its romantic arbour and rounded hillsides. More appropriate to fairies than witches!

TERROIR: This gently sloping hillside faces south-east and is situated to the south of Riquewihr. This is an alluvial cone from a valley in the Vosges whose heavy, deep, clay soil is full of matter brought by the torrent that used to thunder down the mountainside. The sub-soil is composed of marl and some limestone inclusions.

GRAPE VARIETY: This terroir gives our gewurztraminer its strength and finesse. "Sorcières" gewurztraminers have marvellous acidity and a wealth of aroma with more spicy notes than floral. It is a concentrated, powerful wine that is best drunk with food. It is elegant enough to accompany a wide range of dishes.

AREA: 10 hectares.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -


"LES MAQUISARDS"

René Dopff was a member of the Resistance and a friend of André Malraux. He named this estate after his comrades who helped liberate France.

TERROIR: This hillside vineyard located to the south of Riquewihr faces south. The deep soil is composed of marl, clay and a little limestone. The surface is composed of matter brought by an old torrent from the nearby Vosges mountains.

GRAPE VARIETY: The rich terroir allows the Tokay Pinot Gris to express its opulence and wealth of aromas with notes of smoke, spice, preserved fruit and honey. Pinot Gris from the "Maquisards" are characterized by their finesse; the wines are powerful and elegant, matter is concentrated in a wine that is dry and fine without any heaviness.

AREA: 4.5 hectares.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -


"LES AMANDIERS"

Every springtime the almond trees grace the estate with their blossom.

TERROIR: These almond trees are living proof of the mild, sunny climate on this estate. Huddled against the barrier of the Vosges, these vineyards are protected from oceanic influences from the west. The southern aspect affords the vineyards maximum sunshine hours.

The soil is made up of marl and gypsum. The topsoil carries a fine layer of sand and scree from Vosges sandstone.

GRAPE VARIETY: Muscat d'Alsace is France's only dry Muscat. Riesling is a favourite variety on Schoenenbourg but generations of experience has proved that this land also allows Muscat to express all its freshness (acidity brought by gypsum) and wealth of aromas thanks to its special micro climate. Delicate mineral nuances, typical of this terroir, appear within one or two years of ageing. Muscat d'Alsace and Muscat Ottonel are planted in equal parts. Muscat Ottonel is an early-ripening variety and is vulnerable to problems at flowering but it has a rich bouquet and the wine is mellow. Muscat d'Alsace ripens later and is more difficult to vinify. These wines have elegant aromas. On the palate it gives the impression of biting into a ripe grape. These two varieties complement each perfectly.

AREA: 1 hectare on the Grand Cru Schoenenbourg appellation.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -


“ LES TONNELLES ”

The arbour method of training the wine was introduced by the Romans and persisted in Alsace from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

Throughout that period Alsace was better know for its red wines rather than its whites.

DOPFF & IRION has called its Pinot Noir estate wine “ LES TONNELLES” as a tribute to the past.

Terroir : Located to the south-east of Riquewihr, this hillside vineyard faces south – south east and has deep soil consisting of marl and clay. The top soil carries elements brought down by an old torrent from the Vosges mountains nearby.

Grape Variety : This fertile soil encourages the Pinot Noir to express its strength and finesse. Pinot Noir from the “TONNELLES” vineyard are characterised by their elegant tannin. When young, these wines display notes of red fruit (cherries, blackcurrant…) and hints of musk. They are concentrated but retain a certain freshness. The aromas take on an animal-like, or roasted character after the few years.

Vinification: The berries are completely destemmed, then left to macerate for 10 to 15 days depending on the vintage. Elevage and maturation takes place in vat rather than in wood before bottling.

Superficie : Almost 1 hectare.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -


GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG

THE MAGIC OF TERROIR

"There are some magical places in Alsace that just cannot be overlooked. There might be six or seven of them but not ten. Schoenenbourg is definitely one of them". L'Art et le Vin. July 1997.

A magnificent hillside with a steep slope that faces south (380 metres high), Schoenenbourg dominates the village of Riquewihr and offers an unhindered view over the rooftops of this historic village.
Schoenenbourg occupies a privileged position, protected from cold north winds and oceanic influences from the west. It enjoys a mild, sunny micro climate which means that the grapes ripen fully.

The soil at Schoenenbourg is composed of several layers of marl (blue, pink and yellow marl) and gypsum covered with a fine layer of sand and scree from Vosges sandstone from the quatenary period.

Nevertheless, there are differences in the terroir: - Due to Schoenenbourg's southern aspect and particularly, its steep slope, there is a thermal belt approximately half-way up the hill where the temperature is 1° to 1.5° higher than at the bottom or at the top. Our ancestors became aware of this simply by observing birds gliding on the currents above the hillside.

  • Conversely, the proximity of the Vosges forests can delay ripening in some parts of the vineyard.

  • Soil at the top of the hill is thinner due to erosion which means it is richer towards the bottom. The best soil lies on the middle of the hillside.

  • There is less gypsum towards the eastern side.

The plots selectected to produce Schoenenbourg Grand Cru are at the heart of the hillside in an area where the soil is rich in gypsum.

ONCE UPON A TIME...

The Romans fell in love with this site that overlooks the foothills of the Vosges and the plain of the Rhine. They built a tower there from which they could dominate entire region. It seems to be at this point that the vine was first cultivated. The Romans, always on the lookout for a spot of land where vines could grow, could not have found better than this, the land of their dreams.

The wines of Schoenenbourg were already famous and exported throughout northern Europe as far back as the Early Middle Ages. Abbeys (undoubtedly the one at Munster), wealthy landowners and the lords of Wurtemberg Montbéliard owned vines on the "Schöenen Berge" (beautiful mountains) which came to be called "Schöenenburg", then "Schoenenbourg". Voltaire bought a few acres "where the country's most noble wine is born" according to the cartographer Mérian in 1663.

THE MAGIC OF TEAM WORK:

Riesling is a fairly late-ripening variety that allows itself to be guided by the terroir. It has found the perfect partner in Schoenenbourg:

  • Thanks to its micro climate, gradient and aspect to the sun, Schoenenbourg allows Riesling to reach maximum maturity easily, even late in the season.

  • Riesling mirrors the wealth and complexity of the terroir perfectly.

Riesling from Schoenenbourg is a powerful but extremely elegant wine. Its primary aromas of fruit and flowers give way in time to an expression of the terroir with notes of honey, liquorice, flint and coffee. The presence of gypsum in the soil of this Grand Cru gives Riesling that precious acidity to which it owes its ability to age gracefully.

This magic can only take place thanks to the vine-grower's patience and care: low yields, mass selection, date of harvest etc.

AREA: 9 hectares - Total Grand Cru area: 53.40 hectares.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -


GRAND CRU SPOREN

The flanks of the hills around Riquewihr are home to two prestigious terroirs renowned since the Middle Ages: SCHOENENBOURG and SPOREN. These terroirs and the historical beauty of the city have earned the village of Riquewihr its title "PEARL OF ALSACE".

SPOREN (meaning spur) was mentioned in 1432 in the archives of the Lords of Wurtemberg.

TERROIR: Sporen forms a natural cirque to the south of Riquewihr. Its gentle slope (altitude: 275 m) faces south-east. At first glance, its deep soil, with a top layer of clay and decalcified marl, would appear to be unsuitable for grapes to ripen properly but they ripen earlier on Sporen than Schoenenbourg...

The key to this phenomenon lies in both the micro climate, linked to the morphology of the terroir (a basin that stores heat in the clay based soil) and the composition of the soils (it is or 2 metres deep and particularly rich in assimilated phosphorus, a factor that promotes early ripening and therefore the quality of the grape).

Wines from Sporen are usually long lived and complex. Great terroirs produce wines with a capacity for long ageing as the grapes are able to reach full maturity. The complexity of these wines is linked to the vine's root system that digs deep into this soil, rich in trace elements.

TWO SPECIAL GRAPE VARIETIES: This rich, deep soil faces south east and gives Gewurztraminer and Tokay Pinot Gris all their opulence and aroma (peppery notes typical of this terroir). Wines from Sporen are characterized by their richness, strength and elegance. These are wines for laying down. They are rather dry and display good levels of acidity.

AREA: 1 hectare - Total Grand Cru area: 23.7 hectares.

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DOMAINES DU CHATEAU DE RIQUEWIHR
- ESTATE WINES -
VENDANGES TARDIVES AND SELECTIONS DE GRAINS NOBLES

Vendanges Tardives (late-harvested wines) and Sélections de Grains Nobles are made from Alsace's four noble grape varieties: Gewurztraminer, Tokay Pinot Gris, Riesling and Muscat harvested at the peak of ripeness several weeks after the official harvest.

The vineyard's continental climate, extremely low rainfall and sunny autumn seasons provide the perfect conditions for grapes to reach very high sugar levels and for the development of noble rot. Vendanges Tardives and Sélections de Grains Nobles are exceptional wines only produced in the best vintages; they require all the grape grower's expertise.

THE BEST VINTAGES: First of all, special weather conditions are necessary (ideally, orning mists followed by sun and a light wind) which will encourage the development of a fungus called "Botrytis Cinerea", also known as "noble rot" (as for the wines of Sauternes).

The fungus attacks the skin of the grape which becomes fragile and takes on a brown/purple colour. It requires moisture to develop and will therefore cause the berry to dry out, a process which began with over ripeness. The withered berry can lose up to 75% of its water. If the autumn season is rainy, noble rot may turn into grey rot.

If the autumn is too dry the fungus cannot develop. The grape will dehydrate with overripeness, but the wine will not have the characteristics of a botrytized one.

Apart from causing sugar to concentrate, noble rot also has biochemical effects (transformation of the composition of the acids, greater production of glycerol...). Therefore, the grape's characteristics and its aromatic power give way to a different expression linked to its concentration and to Botrytis Cinerea.

STRICT REGULATIONS

These wines may only be produced according to strict rules. Late-harvested wines and Sélections de Grains Nobles must have particularly high levels of sugar at the time of harvest. These levels, together with those for Vin de Paille from the Jura, are the highest amongst France's AOC wines.

Gewurztraminer and Tokay Pinot Gris:

  • 257 g/l or 15.3% potential alcohol for Vendanges Tardives

  • 306 g/l or 18.2% potential alcohol for Sélections de Grains Nobles.

Riesling and Muscat:

  • 235 g/l or 14% potential alcohol for Vendanges Tardives,

  • 276 g/l or 16.4% potential alcohol for Sélections de Grains Nobles.

These strict regulations govern production from the vine to the bottle, 18 months after the harvest.

THE VINE-GROWER'S EXPERTISE

DOPFF ET IRION has instigated the strictest specifications.
The vineyard plots are carefully selected and prepared. We choose the oldest vines with the best aspect to the sun and these vines are short pruned.

In July and August the vines are deleaved so that the bunches are aired (thereby reducing the risk of grey rot).

We usually thin the crop in August.

At this stage, sucess depends mainly on the weather. The harvest will only begin after 3 to 5 samples have been taken (to check for potential alcohol and acidity), the development of noble rot has been assessed and the weather forecast has been taken into consideration. To produce a quality wine, levels of grape maturity in our vineyards exceed official limits. The harvest must also display decent levels of acidity which will help balance the wine. Pressing is carried out slowly.

The harvest is carried out as normal for Vendanges Tardives but several swoops into the vineyard will be necessary to selectively pick those grapes affected by noble rot destined for Sélection de Grains Nobles. The grapes are left whole and pressed slowly for Vendanges Tardives. Fermentation lasts 5 to 6 weeks at controlled temperatures of between 18 to 20°. Fermentation is arrested when the wine has balanced out. The wine is bottled 4 to 6 months afterwards and will be kept in bottle for a minimum of 12 months.

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