My column this week is on a tasting of nine vintages of Château Trotanoy, the excellent Pomerol that is sometimes overlooked with all the attention paid to its superstar stablemate, Château Pétrus.

Overlooked? Well, never by me. Pétrus is so expensive and so inaccessible that it may as well be for Martians. Trotanoy, though a very expensive wine by any ordinary standard, is still available to economic mortals willing to splurge.

Still, a lack of attention was the rationale given for the tasting by Christian Moueix, whose family owns both Pétrus and Trotanoy

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