Domaine
Comte Georges de Vogüé: A Sense of Refinement
By Per-Henrik Mansson
April 30th, 2001
Even Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé's lowest appellation
wine, the village Chambolle-Musigny bottling, is outstanding in 1999.
And that's just for starters.
The reserved François Millet, winemaker for this venerable domaine,
has turned out an exceptional lineup of great '99s. It's no secret why:
Yields were kept to 35 hectoliters per hectare (2.6 tons per acre), which
is relatively low for this vintage. The low yield was made possible by
a "green harvest" and disciplined vineyard management. "We
thinned half of the crop," said Millet.
Comparatively small yields are the norm for the estate, said Jean-Luc
Pépin, commercial director. In the small-crop vintage of 1998,
yields were half the size of those in '99, he added.
The estate's two benchmark grands crus, Bonnes Mares and Musigny, were
harvested on Sept. 20 and 21, just after the first big rain. The rain
does not seem to have harmed quality, partly because a good number of
the vines are old and also because vineyard manager Eric Bourgogne keeps
the vineyards in top-notch condition.
"I don't see any dilution in our '99s," declared Millet. The
grapes were ripe, with 13 percent to 14 percent potential alcohol in the
Bonnes Mares, according to Millet. He gave structure to his wines with
a fairly long fermentation of three weeks. Millet never acidifies his
wines.
Vogüé's Chambolle-Musigny (9094 points on Wine Spectator's
100-point scale) was medium-bodied, ripe and seductive, with floral aromas
and a slight tannic edge. The premier cru Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses
(9094), made from 1.2 acres of vines that produce only about 2,400 bottles
of wine, tickles the senses with complex floral, blackberry, raspberry,
spice and vanilla aromas; gorgeous and enticing, it's a candidate for
a classic rating (95100), depending on how well it shows after being bottled.
The Bonnes Mares (95100), made from grapes grown on 30- to 35-year-old
vines, was ultrasilky, with deft oak touches, a lovely vanilla note and
a flavor of raspberry concentrate. The Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
(95100), made from grapes grown from vines that range from 40 to 50 years
of age, was black in color, balanced and elegant, with refined tannins
and sensational aromatic complexity of spicy oak, floral and black cherry
character. Only 833 cases of the Vieilles Vignes are made from just over
11 acres of vines. The remaining Musigny vines-those that are 25 years
or younger-are declassed into Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru or the village
Chambolle-Musigny (neither was reviewed).
All the wines seem delicious now, but they should age well-in the case
of the Musigny, certainly until 2010. "It's not because the '99s
drink well that one has to rush to open them," said Millet. -P.M.
Chambolle-Musigny
Posted: Thursday, March 06, 2003
By Per-Henrik Mansson
François Millet, winemaker of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
The 2001 wines reflect the mixed weather of the growing season -- a show
of "light and shadow" created by a mix of sun and rain, says
François Millet. This produced fresh fruit and sound acidity, according
to the winemaker of Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, a venerable
winery that traces its origins to the 15th century.
Vogüé's prestige rests on superb vineyard holdings. It owns
three-fourths (or 17.6 acres) of the Musigny grand cru and 14 percent
(7.1 acres) of the Bonnes Mares grand cru. The domaine can produce unbelievably
silky, yet powerful Pinot Noirs from these holdings, as it did in the
1999 vintage.
"The 2001s don't have the structure of the '99s; in those wines
the acidity was integrated with the fruit," says Millet, 46. "The
2001s have a particular acidity, which isn't interwoven with the fruit
but opposed to it." He adds, "There will be few, if any, classic
wines [95-100 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale], because they
don't have the fullness on the palate of the 1999s. But the best 2001s
can be outstanding."
Millet likes the fruit and terroir to speak clearly in Vogüé's
wines, and therefore ages only 30 percent of the wines in new oak barrels.
Both of the domaine's two grands crus tasted outstanding. The Musigny
Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (90-94) was surprisingly rich and Port-like,
showing a silky texture with beautiful raspberries and wild berries. An
acid sensation kicked in on the finish. The wine was made from vines that
are, on average, 45 to 50 years old. (The fruit from Musigny vines that
are 25 years old or younger is declassed into a village Chambolle-Musigny
or the Chambolle premier cru.)
The medium-bodied Bonnes Mares (90-94), made from 35-year-old vines,
was ultrasmooth and rich, with sweet tannins, clean black berry flavors,
and a fresh finish.
The Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses (85-89) is a delicious and supple
premier cru, with pure red and black fruit and a nice mineral character,
but it lacked a bit of volume and midpalate richness.
Burgundy's
Top Producers Posted: Tuesday, July 09, 2002
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
Much is expected from this historic estate, and for good reason. It traces
its origins as far back as the 15th century, which is old even by Burgundy's
genealogical standards. And it boasts remarkable vineyard holdings, including
three-fourths of the famed Musigny grand cru, for a total of 17.6 acres.
The domaine also owns 14 percent of Bonnes Mares (7.1 acres) and produces
a small amount of premier cru Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses.
The de Vogüé family came into the estate through marriage
in the 18th century. Georges de Vogüé inherited the estate
in 1925. Upon his death in 1987, it passed to his only daughter, Elizabeth,
Baronne Bertrand de Ladoucette.
The domaine produces about 3,300 cases a year. Winemaker François
Millet thins his crop to optimize flavors through reasonable yields (2.6
tons per acre in 1999). He ages only 30 percent to 40 percent of the grands
crus in new oak barrels, a move that emphasizes earth and fruit flavors
instead of spicy wood aromas.
Only the grapes from the older vines (25 to 50 years) in the Musigny
go into the Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes; a Chambolle-Musigny
Premier Cru created in 1995 is made up entirely of Musigny fruit from
the younger vines.
The 1999s are superb, combining rich fruit, soft tannins and firm backbone.
Comte Georges de Vogüé has built on long experience to climb
to the top of the red Burgundy hierarchy.
2000 Bourgogne Blanc
Pale gold. A waxy nose with subtle, cream covered, pineapple. The nose
slowly evolves a faint butterscotch edge. The density and balance when
coupled with the acidity is rather good, it's not entirely subtle but
there is more than a hint of refinement, there's even a lingering creamy
edge to the nut infused finish. Very interesting and worth keeping in
the cellar for 5+ years - as demonstrated by...
1996 Bourgogne Blanc
Golden. The beautifully round nose retains a citrus bite. Medium bodied
with a lovely, waxy, satin texture. There's good length too - for a Bourgogne!
Frankly this has a real Grand Cru nose and real density and interest in
the mouth; it's only from the mid-palate onwards that we have a diminuendo
rather than a crescendo, but these are very young vines... A wine that
could still be cellared and might yet improve but it's compromised only
by the very young vines.
2001 Chambolle-Musigny
Medium cherry-red, fades to salmon pink at the edge. The nose shows powdery,
pure red fruit. The palate gives a very fresh expression; medium length
but quite lacy and très elegant. The fine tannins give a little
bite on the finish but this is a lovely, pure and elegant rather than
powerful example of Chambolle.
2000 Chambolle-Musigny
Medium cherry-red. There's a hint of briar but mostly the wine majors
on red, powdery fruit. Fresh, nice acidity and texture. The fruit is ripe
and elegantly proportioned. The medium tannins still give a little grab.
Young, primary and elegant to boot.
1994 Chambolle-Musigny
Drunk with lunch at the restaurant 'Le Chambolle-Musigny'. Medium ruby
colour with a watery rim. The nose starts with a burst, closes-up for
around 15 minutes before once-more blossoming; settles into a forward,
slightly roast base covered (yet again) with powdery red fruit - all fruit
and still quite primary. The silky palate has nice acidity, some fat and
slightly oaky tannin. Good length, tasty too. A really good 1994, one
that other than the colour, shows little obviously mature character.
1993 Chambolle-Musigny
Medium-plus colour and looks amazingly young - younger in fact than most
'98's! The nose is wonderful with the full range of 1993's characteristic
dried cherry/cranberry/raisin fruits, slowly developing a savoury, meaty
edge. Classic, fresh, 1993 acidity is matched by creamy fruit and an almost
graphite/coal-style mineral edge. For a villages-level wine this is gorgeous
and still young.
2001 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
Similar in colour to the 2001 villages Chambolle. The fruit shows a much
deeper aspect on the nose and still a trace of oak. The palate also offers
a step-up in density vs the villages and an extra creamy edge to the beautifully
presented fruit. To match, there's a little extra structure with more
forward tannins. Not so lacy but certainly more serious. Very good wine,
one day.
2000 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
Just a little darker than the 2000 villages Chambolle. The nose is deeper,
but significantly tighter. In the mouth, instantly lacier and spicier
with an immense step-up in complexity - high-toned fruits invade the back
of the palate. Late tannin grab with a really impressive length - I'd
buy this in a shot.
1997 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru
I've had this wine twice before, both from the same merchant and on both
occasions there's been a rather muddy, indeed soupy aspect to the wine
- disappointing would be a fair descriptor - particularly when factoring
in the price. This wine, direct from the domaine, is completely different.
For a start it's much fresher and does without the cooked plummy-fruit
aspects of the previous wines. There's not the purity and focus of the
'93 village Chambolle but neither is this an archetypal 1997 as it still
offers good freshness and purity. It's nice, complex and shows some density.
It's an interesting and good wine, but possibly a contender for the weakest
of all these wines, at least in terms how they all perform within their
respective categories.
1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses
Denser colour than the 2001 1er Cru. The nose starts with faint mushrooms
against a tightly-held core of fruit. The nose continuously evolves; first
there are strawberry notes then a multitude of redcurrant and other red-berry
fruits take turns coming to the fore - this is superb, very complex and
becomes quite haunting. The palate has both intensity and balance but
gives little else away, it is a very primary performance. There is more
than ample length, but it's the nose that dominates this wine, and what
a nose!
1992 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses
Quite a deep core of ruby-red fruit, it's only this respect that this
and the '88 Bonnes-Mares show any sign of age. The nose starts with a
deep plum-skin that gradually becomes more red without ever coming close
to the delineation or complexity of the '99. Beautiful texture - this
is 1st-class Burgundy. Amply proportioned, soft and sexy, this 'lady in
love' has little time for the intellectual, but she's very 'ready' now!
A really lovely wine and frankly there's no rush to consume - my best
1992 experience.
2002 Bonnes-Mares - Tasted Oct 2005
Deep cherry-red. A brooding nose that mixes red and black fruit, though
black is dominant, with a coffee edge. Concentrated and tannic. Starts
on full power, a gradual diminuendo is the character of the wine - well
it couldn't go higher! - fading very slowly into the finish. It's fully-packed
with material and shows great balance. Not a hint four-square, but I wouldn't
consider opening this bruiser for at least another 8 years.
2000 Bonnes-Mares
Similar intensity to the 2000 Chambolle 1er, but the colour has a more
purple shade. Much more communicative on the nose with blacker dried and
slightly spiced fruits. No spice on the palate, instead there's dense,
concentrated and muscular black, tarry fruit. Much more primary so less
complex than the 1er Cru but a lovely creamy finish tops of this performance.
Very impressive.
1999 Bonnes-Mares
Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose has a little oak-toast and shows a much
more savoury and spicy edge than the other wines, the fruit has a blacker
edge too. The spice is also there on the palate, in-fact it currently
defines the wine more than the fruit. A completely different expression
to the others; it shows impressive though primary density and balanced
structure - more so than the 99 Amoureuses - different, but very interesting.
1988 Bonnes-Mares
Medium-plus core of ruby-red that shows only a little fading. The nose
is very-much a 1993-style expression of fruit with a more mineral, graphitic
edge and becomes a little meaty with aeration. Lovely texture, still very
fruit-driven and also quite earthy. The balance and remaining structure
suggest that many years of enjoyment lie ahead for this wine.
2002 Musigny Vieilles Vignes - Tasted Oct 2005
Deep, saturated cherry-red. Wow, what a nose; the glass doesn't even need
a swirl to give up chocolate and creme brulee covered red cherry-fruit
- super complexity. The nose is well matched to a beautifuly textured
palate, incredibly complex flavours that cling to your gums, fine tannins
that are completely covered by the fruit. Magnificent now, I'm drooling
at the prospect of its 20th birthday!
2000 Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. Softer, lighter, more floral nose than
the 2000 Bonnes-Mares more complex with the scent of roses. Fantastic
mouthfeel, elegance allied to power - wave after wave of different, sometimes
spicy elements. Fine tannins and an extra little burst on the finish.
The real excitement is on the mid-palate. Young and fresh. How great?
I guess we'll find out around 2020...
1999 Musigny Vieilles Vignes
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red. A melange of fruit greets the first sniff;
the aromatics are in a similar vein to the '99 Amoureuses, the palate
however, has another level of structure and concentration: it's not obvious
at first taste as you're assaulted by such a bewildering array of sensations,
but it's very obvious when you move back. Despite the density there is
no undue fat, many unfurling layers and tannins that wrap your teeth in
velvet. Whilst today I prefer the expression of fruit on the nose of the
'99 Amoureuses, I simply can't imagine how good this wine will become.
I'm not tempted to try it before it's 15th birthday though. Very special.
1991 Musigny Vieilles Vignes
A vintage of hail, this was the 'two-week triage with tweezers' harvest.
Only 15 hl/ha (Bonnes-Mares was down at 9!). I've read reports that this
is not a typical Chambolle but on this performance it is a fantastic wine.
Looks younger than the '88 Bonnes-Mares that precedes it, but despite
both depth and an engaging complexity after the previous wines the nose
is relatively understated. The palate is dense without being fat, well
delineated and shows a little rasp to the the tannins in the finish -
but it's a long and tasty finish. This wine still seems to speak of more
to come in the future. Whilst the '99 certainly has an extra flourish
on the finish, side-by-side I'm surprised to see a little more intensity
to the fruit of this wine. Luckily I've tasted (actually drunk with dinner)
this wine twice in just over a year and this was a consistent showing.
Very fine wine but not yet the complexity I would hope for.
Domaine
Comte Georges de Vogüé: A Sense of Refinement 
